Cultural Slips & Trips

*13 Aug 2010*

I’m sitting here at one of my favourite watering holes – Huxley’s at Heathrow Terminal 5. Have just hoisted myself up on a barstool and ordered a pint of Stella. The bartender replies ‘Nice to hear that order from a lady…’ Me, quizzically: ‘Why’s that?’ Barman: ‘It’s just not that often you hear a lady order Stella.’ I think a moment, then: ‘Well, I suppose Stella’s got quite a different reputation here than at home.’

I always forget this. It doesn’t bother me too much, but in England, Stella Artois lager is colloquially known as ‘Wife Beater’ – due to its high alcohol content & light taste. Therefore also possibly a bit chavvy. Meanwhile at home it’s a choice that no girl would hesitate to order yet guys would think twice about in an effort to protect their manly personae.

It’s amusing to me that, 2 years on, some of these silly cultural things continue to trip me up. The biggest one I cannot get my head around is the business kiss. Over in these parts (Europe generally), kissing your business colleagues – or at least those you don’t see daily – is as commonplace as a firm yet friendly handshake is in the US. Each country has its specific custom: In France & Germany, for instance you do the double-kiss (one per side). In Italy I noticed on my last trip that, although it’s the same double-kiss, custom dictates you start by going right, then left, which is opposite of the northern countries. In Holland, you start left but kiss 3 times – L-R-L – also in Switzerland. In Belgium I’ve been told they sometimes just keep going til it gets ridiculous, but generally it seems to be the same 3 times as Holland.

This is all fine, once you learn and therefore can be prepared. The problem is, the UK is confused. They don’t know whether they’re coming or going. You might shake hands, you might kiss once, you might kiss twice. It’s always a surprise and thus always slightly awkward. I can never remember exactly what I have established with a given person, and so often I end up with a stick-out-the-hand while they lean in for the kiss so I lean in for the kiss and then go to kiss twice while they’ve already moved back because a single kiss does it this time.

As you might imagine, I tend to take this chance to babble on in my loudest most American voice on how awkward this all is, what’s wrong with a simple handshake, I feel like a fool, and just go on making matters worse until no one knows what exactly we’re talking about anymore. This makes business meetings all that much more fun!

Sounds from Home

After what seemed like a long hiatus, but was actually about six weeks, we took in a couple of concerts in the last week. While it sometimes feels like we see way too many American bands and not enough local stuff, one benefit of being overseas is seeing some up-and-coming US bands in really small venues. We're definitely going to miss going to shows here when we move back home.

First up last week was lo-fi/garage rock Best Coast, which I ended up attending on my own thanks to Jess having to work and not really being very interested anyway. The band has gotten a lot of hype and I like several of their songs but having listened to some of their live stuff I was not expecting much. While they ended up sounding better than I expected, they didn't have much energy and too many felt like throw aways. Probably didn't help that it was about 110 degrees in the venue. Overall I can't say I loved the show or really understand all of the attention they are getting, but I’m glad I checked them out (especially after trying unsuccessfully to see them in NYC in early April).

http://www.myspace.com/bestycoasty
http://www.independent.co.uk/arts-entertainment/music/reviews/best-coast-cargo-london-2044603.html

Last night we (this time both Jess and I) went to see Fool’s Gold at another small central London venue. Despite a little bit of skepticism from someone who will remain nameless (not me) the show was amazing. While not a band I would rush out to purchase their album, the energy and enthusiasm with which they delivered their unique blend of African/Caribbean influenced indie pop, often sung in Hebrew, made for a unique but fantastic performance. It was impossible not to get into the music and they're definitely a band I would go see live again.

http://www.myspace.com/foolsgold

- Jason

Jason and Carole’s trip to Florence and Pisa

Florence is proving to be one of those places that I seem to enjoy more each time I visit. Despite being full of tourists it manages to retain an amazing charm with so much history/culture while still feeling like a place where people actually live and work. Even though it was my third trip, so much still felt new. Not too surprising I guess given all of the sights it has to offer. Just wandering the streets a little bit away from the centre could provide a trip in and of itself. It was the first time my Mom had been so we visited the two major museums, and much like visiting the Met in NYC or Louvre in Paris, the Uffizi has such an overwhelming collection it is impossible to even begin to take it all in during a visit.

Add all of the great Italian food and wine, which we sampled in abundance, to the museums, churches and architecture and I have to put Florence near the top of my list of must see European cities. I will admit it is tough for me to pass judgement on great Italian cities having not yet been to Rome or Venice. However, I find it hard to imagine either could match Florence’s for its ability manage the crush of tourists without losing any of its quaintness and that great relaxed feel that makes visiting Italy so wonderful. I am eagerly awaiting my trip back with Jess in early July!

Oh yeah, we also visited Pisa, which somewhat to my surprise is well worth at least a day on any trip to the region as the city itself deserves exploring beyond just popping in to see the tower and amazing Duomo.

- Jason

A Northern Voyage

Over Memorial Day weekend (here, the 'second May bank holiday'), we went to Tallinn, Estonia and Helsinki, Finland.  I completely acknowledge that this must make it seem like we've reached the end of normal things to do, but Estonia is not nearly as off the beaten path as it sounds.  In fact, Tallinn has risen to glory as a popular 'stag do' (bachelor party) destination in recent years, probably because it's relatively cheap compared to other European capitals, and it's easy to get to/from/around.


We spent most of our late May weekend bundled up against the chilly early-Spring weather, wandering the Tallinn old town and out off the tourist track into a pretty little park that also housed the KUMU, the modern art museum, where we spent a few hours.  We enjoyed some of the local brew and made 'friends' with one very drunk Finnish man, who wanted to know that we were welcome to his house if we ever found ourselves 2 hours north of Helsinki.

View of Tallinn from Oleviste church tower

Creepy room at the KUMU

We spent 2 days & 3 nights in Tallinn before taking a ferry - actually a retrofitted cruise ship that was pretty retro-feeling itself - to Helsinki for a one day / one night visit.  We enjoyed some local grub at the seaport before heading out to Suomenlinna island, an important part of Finland's defense against Russia.

On Suomenlinna Island

See the rest of our pictures here!