If They Ferment It, We Will Come

You might be aware: we like wine. A lot. However, New Zealand isn't a wine producing region I knew a lot about before this trip, and I was excited to get out and learn about what makes NZ special when it comes to vino.

As it turns out, this is a really good place to be oenophiles. Full of microclimates that can turn out world-class Sauvignon Blancs and Pinot Noirs, not to mention high quality Rieslings, Syrahs and Chardonnays, New Zealand is a relative newcomer to the global wine industry, making it a fascinating locale for wine tourism.

Upon arrival in the south island on Dec 4th, we didn’t waste any time in getting to know the goods of Marlborough, stopping to taste along the short 35km (22 mile) drive from the ferry to our lodging. After checking in to our accommodations earlier than expected, we made a few more stops right up until cellar door closing time (5pm).

Johanneshof Winery

Huia Winery

Vines at Huia

Our accommodations in the region turned out to be fantastic.  We had booked two nights in a “cottage” (a tiny self-contained studio) in the middle of the wine region.  The property was run by an English couple in their mid-60s who bought the property over the internet in 2008, having learned it was for sale a few years after vacationing there themselves.  They now serve as hosts, proprietors, and keepers of sheep, deer, bees, and chickens, the latter providing eggs for our morning meals.

Jason greeting from our front (only) door

Nobody here but us chickens

Not a bad spot for a nap

They also had bicycles to borrow, and so we tackled day 2 of our wine touring by pedal, cycling 30km (18 miles) around “flat” terrain, visiting 6 wineries on our route.  We started off the day taking our chances against a forecast calling for 50% chance of rain, and we cycled away from the clouds all day long, watching the rain fall on the hills that surrounded us but never getting wet riding around in the valley.

A cloudy day at Cloudy Bay winery

All geared up for a day of 2-wheeling

Picnic lunch w/pinot noir at Isabel Winery

The skies finally cleared for our final 5km ride home

Wine tasting in Marlborough, by the way, is a thoroughly enjoyable experience. For the most part, the tastings are free, and those rare few that aren’t charge 5 NZD ($4 USD), or *maybe* 10. Everyone is producing Sauvignon Blanc (of course) and Pinot Noir, but we were surprised to find a variety of styles of Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, and even a Syrah here and there, most of which were made to a high standard.  Most interestingly, though, were the philosophies on production of the 2 main varietals. Everyone was quick to point out that Marlborough Pinot Noir was different from Otago (southern south island) Pinot Noir – the more well-known Pinot-producing region in New Zealand. They were polite as possible in pointing out that the Marlborough style is a more elegant, refined alternative to the big, jammy Pinots found in Otago.  And many of them were damn good, with more restrained fruit and earthy layers.  When it came to Sauv Blanc, it was refreshing to learn that Kiwi winemakers are starting to branch out from the characteristic grassy, grapefruity style and making the most of their individual terroirs to create more nuanced version of the country’s signature wine.

We were reluctant to move along after a couple amazing days of sipping our way around Marlborough, but know that amazing scenery and experiences await everywhere around here. And I have no doubt we'll be back to do some more "research!"

More pix can be found on Picasa - the links are at right.